Shut off the power (gas valve to OFF or breaker off), close the cold-water valve on top of the tank, then place towels and a bucket under the leak. If you can't stop the water at the tank, close your home's main shutoff and call us at 1-844-HOT2DAY.

Close your home's main water shutoff immediately, kill the gas or breaker to the unit, and move valuables away from the area. Don't try to drain a burst tank yourself — call us so we can replace it the same day.

Look on top of the tank for a lever or round handle on the cold-water inlet (usually the right side). In most Philly row homes the whole-house main shutoff is in the basement near the front foundation wall.

Gas units: rotate the gas control knob on the front of the tank to OFF (not 'pilot'). Electric units: flip the dedicated double-pole breaker labeled 'water heater' in your panel. Then close the cold-water valve on top.

Yes. Turning the gas control to OFF stops the burner from firing on a leaking or empty tank, which prevents overheating and damage. It's safe and reversible.

No. Every gallon you draw refills the tank, which keeps the leak going and can damage your floor, framing, and finished spaces. Shut the water off and book a replacement.

It can be. Water around a gas burner or electric elements is a fire and shock risk, and a slow leak can rot subfloor and grow mold. A bulging or hissing tank is an emergency.

Rarely, but yes — if the temperature & pressure (T&P) relief valve fails on a tank that's overheating, the tank can rupture violently. If the T&P valve is venting steam, leave the area and call us right away.

Most homeowner policies cover sudden water damage from a burst tank (not the tank itself). Take photos, save receipts, and file the claim — we can provide an itemized invoice for your adjuster.

Shut your home's main water valve, kill the breaker to the basement if water is near outlets, and call us. Don't wade into standing water that may be touching electrical.

Gas: the pilot is out, the thermocouple failed, or the gas valve has tripped a safety lockout. Electric: a tripped breaker, popped reset button, or a burned-out heating element. If the tank is also leaking, it needs replacement, not repair.

Usually a broken dip tube (cold water mixes with hot at the top), a failed lower heating element on electric units, or a tank that's too small for your household. Sediment buildup can also cut usable capacity by 30–50%.

Almost always a failed shower cartridge or anti-scald valve at that fixture, not the water heater. If every other tap has hot water, the heater is fine.

Thermostat set too low, a partially failed element (electric), a weak burner or dirty flame sensor (gas), or heavy sediment insulating the burner from the water. Start by checking the thermostat is at 120°F or higher.

Sediment in the tank, a failing mixing valve, or pressure swings from a well pump or city main. On gas units, a partially clogged burner can also cycle hot/cold.

Long pipe runs from the tank to the fixture, undersized supply lines, or a recirculation loop that isn't running. A tankless or point-of-use heater can solve chronic long waits.

Classic broken dip tube or failed lower element on an electric tank. Both are common at the 8–12 year mark and usually mean the tank is near end of life.

A safety switch (ECO/high-limit) is tripping and resetting, the gas valve is locking out, or your tank is short-cycling on sediment. This usually means the unit is on borrowed time.

Our flat rates: 40 gal gas $2,199 · 50 gal gas $2,499 · 75 gal gas $2,999 · Power Vent $3,999. That's the price you pay — tank, install, permit, expansion tank, fittings, haul-away, and warranty included.

Most use the phone to book a sales visit so they can upsell in person. We don't. Our prices are published, flat, and apply to standard installations during normal business hours.

The tank, all fittings and connections, an expansion tank, code upgrades, the permit, haul-away of the old unit, full cleanup, and a written warranty. If any of those aren't in the quote, it's not really a complete install.

Because the cheap quote was bait. Common 'surprises': permit fees, expansion tank, code upgrades, haul-away, dielectric unions, drip pan, gas flex line. We include all of that up front.

Dispatch/trip fee, fuel surcharge, permit fee, code upgrade charge, expansion tank, haul-away, weekend rate, 'difficult access' fee, and union/fitting upcharges. We charge none of those on a standard install.

New water heater, expansion tank, new fittings & connections, permit, haul-away, code upgrades, full cleanup, manufacturer tank warranty, and our 5-year workmanship warranty. One number, no add-ons.

No. Permits are included on every install and we pull, file, and close them out for you.

Yes — always. We disconnect, drain, remove, and legally dispose of your old tank at no extra cost.

Yes. Expansion tank, proper venting, sediment trap, drip pan where required, and modern shutoffs are all part of the flat rate.

Yes. Required by Philadelphia code on closed plumbing systems, and included in every one of our installs.

Standard installs are at the published flat rate. Same-day service (call by noon) is +$295. True 24/7 emergency service (nights, weekends, holidays) is +$495.

No. There's no trip charge, no dispatch fee, and no fuel surcharge on flat-rate installations.

No. You only pay the flat rate for your install — plus the same-day or emergency surcharge if you choose that tier.

Yes — we offer 0% promotional financing for qualified customers. Ask about it when you book and we'll send the link.

If it's 10+ years old, leaking from the tank body, costing more to repair than it's worth, or running out of hot water faster than it used to — it's time. Replacing on your schedule is cheaper than replacing in an emergency.

Sometimes. A bad thermocouple, element, thermostat, or T&P valve is a repair. A leaking tank, cracked flue, or rotted burner chamber is a replacement.

Under 6 years old with a single failed part: repair. Over 8 years old, leaking, or facing a $400+ repair: replace. New tanks are more efficient and reset the warranty clock.

Most replacements take 2–4 hours from arrival to your first hot tap.

Yes — someone 18+ needs to be on site for access, walk-through, and final sign-off.

Often yes — call by noon for same-day install. After hours, weekends, and holidays are covered by our 24/7 emergency service.

Yes — usually within an hour of completion once the tank is fully heated. We confirm hot water at a fixture before we leave.

No. Water to the rest of the house is restored as soon as the new tank is connected — typically within 90 minutes of arrival.

Yes, always. Disconnect, drain, remove, and dispose — included.

Yes. Floors swept, drop cloths removed, packaging hauled out. We leave your space cleaner than we found it.

Gas tank units: 8–12 years. Electric tank units: 10–15 years. Tankless: 15–20 years. Hard water and skipped maintenance shorten all of those.

Watch for: rusty hot water, rumbling or popping, longer recovery times, rising gas/electric bills, moisture at the base, or it's simply past 10 years old.

Discolored water, sulfur smell, banging during heating, water pooling under the unit, the pilot won't stay lit, or the breaker keeps tripping.

Tank units rarely. Tankless and high-end hybrid units can hit 20 with annual maintenance, soft water, and a fresh anode rod every 4–5 years.

Hard water, high incoming pressure (above 80 psi), skipped flushing, a depleted anode rod, and chronically high thermostat settings (above 140°F).

Yes. Calcium and magnesium drop out as sediment, insulate the burner from the water, and force the unit to work harder. Hard-water homes typically lose 2–4 years off tank life.

Yes. An annual flush clears sediment, restores efficiency, and can add 2–3 years of useful life — especially in hard-water areas.

1–3 people, one bath: 40 gallon is plenty. 3–5 people or two baths: go 50 gallon. The $300 upgrade is cheaper than running out of hot water for the next 10 years.

Rule of thumb: 1 person = 20–25 gal, 2 = 30–40, 3–4 = 50, 5+ = 75. Adjust up if you have a soaking tub or run laundry and showers at the same time.

Worth it if you have 5+ people, a soaking tub, or simultaneous heavy use (shower + dishwasher + laundry). Otherwise a 50 is the value sweet spot.

Gas recovers faster and costs less to run in most of PA, but needs proper venting. Electric is cheaper to install, simpler, and works anywhere with a 30-amp circuit — but slower to recover and pricier to run.

Atmospheric vents up a metal flue using natural draft — simple and cheap. Power vent uses a fan to push exhaust through PVC out a sidewall — needed when you have no chimney or a long horizontal run.

Tank: lower install cost, simpler, handles big simultaneous demand. Tankless: endless hot water, 30% less energy use, takes up almost no space, but costs more up front and needs annual descaling.

Heat-pump hybrids are 2–3× more efficient than electric tanks and qualify for rebates. They need ~700 cu ft of conditioned space and produce some noise — great for basements, not great for closets.

We install Bradford White, Rheem, and A.O. Smith — all top-tier. Bradford White is plumber-only and arguably the most durable; Rheem has the best warranty support; A.O. Smith is widely available with strong parts.

Bradford White: longest-lasting tanks, plumber-only distribution, better burner design. Rheem: easier warranty claims, broader retail availability, strong digital controls. Both are excellent.

Bradford White typically lasts 1–2 years longer in hard water and has a more serviceable burner. AO Smith is easier to source parts for in a pinch and has a competitive warranty.

Rheem and State are sister brands (both AO Smith family). Build quality is similar; Rheem has broader retail support, State has stronger commercial reputation.

Almost always a failed thermocouple or dirty flame sensor — the safety device that proves the pilot is burning. Less commonly: a kinked pilot tube, weak gas pressure, or a bad gas valve.

If the pilot lights but goes out the moment you release the control knob, yes. Thermocouples are a $20 part with a 30-minute swap — easy fix on a unit that's otherwise healthy.

Yellow flames mean incomplete combustion — usually a dirty burner, blocked air intake, or a flue restriction. This produces carbon monoxide and needs service immediately.

Signs: pilot lights but main burner won't fire, status light blinks an error code, or you smell gas at the valve. Gas valves are a $300–$500 part — on an older tank, replacement usually makes more sense.

Each manufacturer uses a different code, but the pattern (count the flashes between pauses) tells you the fault. The legend is on a sticker behind the front cover — common codes are thermopile, vent blockage, or high-limit trip.

Yes, on most older units — instructions are on the front label. If gas has been off more than 5 minutes, ventilate the area first. If it won't stay lit after two tries, stop and call us.

Usually a shorted heating element, a failed thermostat, or moisture in the wiring junction box. Tripping every few minutes means stop using it and call — running it shorted can damage the panel.

Test with the breaker off and the wires removed: 10–16 ohms across the element terminals is healthy; infinite or zero ohms means it's failed. A burned-out element is a 1-hour repair on a tank that's otherwise sound.

Kill the breaker, pop the upper access panel, fold back the insulation, and press the small red reset button on the high-limit switch. If it trips again within a day, the thermostat or element is failing.

It's the high-limit safety. If the water exceeds about 180°F, it trips and shuts off power to the elements to prevent a steam explosion. A repeated trip is never a 'just reset it' situation.

Yes, always replace as a pair. They wear at the same rate, and replacing one while the other is on borrowed time means a second service call within months.

Hot only = the tank is corroding from the inside, usually because the anode rod is spent. Both hot and cold = the issue is the supply line or city main, not the heater.

Bacteria in the tank reacting with a magnesium anode rod produces hydrogen sulfide gas. Swap to an aluminum/zinc anode and shock the tank — fixes it in 90% of cases.

Usually dissolved air from cold water warming up — pour a glass, let it sit, and watch it clear from the bottom up. Persistent cloudiness can mean sediment or a failing tank lining.

Disintegrating rubber from an old supply hose, dip tube, or anode rod sleeve. Black flakes in hot only = the dip tube; in both = a supply-line component.

Anode rod is fully consumed and the tank is now sacrificing its own steel. This is the last warning before the tank starts leaking — plan a replacement now.

Sediment that's been building in the bottom of the tank is finally being stirred up — common after a city water-main flush or if you haven't drained the tank in years.

Calcium and minerals have dropped out of solution and settled in the tank bottom. Flush the tank annually; if there's a thick layer, the recovery time will never come back without replacement.

Sediment on the burner side of the tank traps water that flashes to steam as the burner fires — the pops are steam bubbles escaping. Flushing helps; heavy sediment usually means end of life.

Same cause as popping but worse — large sediment pockets or 'water hammer' from a fast-closing valve elsewhere in the house. Severe banging can crack the glass lining inside the tank.

A loose heating element on electric units, or a vibration from the burner blower on power-vent gas. Usually harmless but easy to silence.

A partially closed valve, a relief valve starting to leak, or restricted flue venting. A whistling T&P valve is a safety issue — call right away.

Heavy sediment boiling at the bottom. You can sometimes recover it with a deep flush; on units 8+ years old, it's usually time to replace.

Burner igniting through scale, or condensation hitting hot metal during recovery. Occasional crackling on startup is normal; constant crackling is sediment.

Yes — annually for soft water, twice a year if you're on hard or well water. It clears sediment, restores efficiency, and can add years of useful life.

Once a year for most Philly homes on city water. If you see flakes at faucet screens or hear popping, do it sooner.

120°F is the sweet spot — hot enough to kill bacteria, cool enough to prevent scald injuries, and the most energy-efficient. Bump to 130°F if you have a dishwasher without a booster heater.

For trips longer than 3 days, set it to 'vacation' mode or 80°F. Don't turn gas units fully off unless you're comfortable relighting the pilot when you return.

Yes — kill the power, close the cold inlet, hook a garden hose to the drain valve, open a hot faucet for air, and run it to a floor drain or outside. Plan 30–45 minutes for a full tank.

It absorbs the pressure surge that happens every time your water heater fires and heats water. Without one, that pressure has to go somewhere — usually out the T&P valve or into your fixtures.

A magnesium or aluminum rod inside the tank that corrodes on purpose so the steel tank doesn't. When the anode is gone, the tank starts being eaten next.

Yes — every 4–5 years (sooner with a softener). A fresh anode can double the life of a tank for about $60 in parts.

Glance at it monthly for leaks or rust, test the T&P valve once a year, and have a tech do a full inspection (anode, flue, combustion) every 3 years.

Yes. Philadelphia and all surrounding PA municipalities require a plumbing permit to replace a water heater. Skipping it can void insurance claims and cause issues at resale.

We do — every time. Pulled, filed, and closed out under our license. You don't lift a finger.

Yes, included in the flat rate. Never an add-on.

Most municipalities inspect on a sample basis or by request. We install every job to pass inspection on the first visit, whether one is scheduled or not.

Yes — Philadelphia code and modern PA plumbing code require an expansion tank on any closed system (which is virtually all homes with a PRV or backflow preventer).

Not in PA. They're a California/Pacific Northwest requirement. We don't install them unless requested.

Required in any installation above a finished space (second floor, over a finished basement). We install one whenever code calls for it.

Yes — a code-compliant cold-water shutoff above the tank is required and included in every install. Old gate valves get replaced with modern quarter-turn ball valves.

Yes. New shutoff, expansion tank, dielectric unions, proper venting, sediment trap on gas, drip pan where required, and a current T&P discharge line. All included.

Because doing one thing 1,000 times a year makes us faster, cleaner, and cheaper than a general plumber doing it once a month. Specialization is the whole business model.

Published prices, no upsells, every install includes everything, same-day available, and a real workmanship warranty. You see the number before we ever knock on your door.

Because we don't pay our techs commission. They're paid to install well, not to sell you a water softener you didn't ask for.

Because hiding prices is how the industry has gotten away with bait-and-switch for decades. We'd rather lose a price-shopper than surprise a customer.

Yes — fully licensed in Philadelphia and the surrounding PA counties, and carrying full liability and workers' comp coverage.

Yes. Call by noon for same-day install (+$295) or anytime for 24/7 emergency service (+$495). Standard installs are scheduled within 1 business day.

The full manufacturer tank warranty (typically 6–10 years on the tank) plus our 5-year workmanship warranty on everything we touch. Backed by our Peace of Mind Promise.

Yes — every time, at no extra cost. Disconnect, drain, remove, and dispose.

Philadelphia and the surrounding suburbs within roughly a 35-mile radius — Bucks, Montgomery, Chester, and Delaware counties.